Module 06
Yarn Count & Gauge
The two numbers buyers confuse most often. They are not the same thing, and they are measured in different systems.
Gauge is not count.
This is the distinction that causes the most expensive misunderstandings in a knitwear brief.
Machine gauge (GG)
Machine gauge is the number of needles per inch on the needle bed. It is a property of the machine and of the fabric structure, not of the yarn. A 12 GG fabric is finer and lighter than a 7 GG fabric. It is also completely different from the weight categories used in hand knitting, which describe yarn thickness for a home knitter and have no fixed machine meaning.
Yarn count
Yarn count describes the linear mass of the yarn, and it is measured in a system that must always be named. The number alone means nothing: 30 in Nm and 30 in Ne are entirely different yarns, and Nm 30 is roughly three times finer than Ne 30.
Count and gauge have to work together on the machine. Too fine a count for the gauge causes needle drops and poor knitting quality. The supplier's recommended gauge, which comes from their own trials, is the reference that should be used.
The count systems.
| System | Name | How it works | Example |
|---|---|---|---|
| Nm | Metric count | Metres of yarn per gram. A higher number is a finer yarn. Common for wool, cashmere and viscose. | 1/30 Nm is a single yarn of 30 metres per gram. |
| Ne | Cotton count | Length of a reference yarn in a unit of 840 yards per pound. Common for cotton. | Ne 30/1 is a single yarn; the second number is the ply. |
| tex | Mass per length | Grams per 1,000 metres. A higher number is a heavier yarn. | 40 tex is heavier than 20 tex. |
| denier | Filament count | Grams per 9,000 metres. Used for filament yarns and silk. | A lower denier is a finer filament. |
Common machine gauges.
These are the gauges that come up most often in an apparel brief. They are a starting point, not a specification.
| Gauge | Fabric character | Typical yarn direction |
|---|---|---|
| 3 GG | Chunky | Heavy, relaxed structures. Bouclé, heavy lambswool and brushed blends. |
| 5 GG | Medium chunky | Chunky knits and heavier jersey. Chunky cable and rib structures. |
| 7 GG | Mid weight | Classic chunky-to-medium knitwear. Lambswool and wool blends at their most common. |
| 12 GG | Fine | Fine-gauge jersey and full-fashioned knitwear. Merino, cotton and viscose blends. |
| 14 GG | Fine plus | Very fine, light structures. High-density merino and silk blends. |
| 18 GG and above | Very fine | Technical lightweight knitwear. Requires the finest counts and the most care. |
How count affects cost and appearance.
Appearance
A fine count gives a smooth, dense surface with fine stitch definition and a light fabric weight. A heavier count gives a more visible stitch structure, more body and a heavier, warmer fabric. Changing the count on the same style changes the look of the garment, not only its cost.
Cost
A finer count contains more fibre per kilogram, so material cost per kilogram rises even at the same price per fibre. A heavier count uses less fibre per kilogram, but the fabric weight per garment rises. Cost per garment, not cost per kilogram, is the number that matters to a buyer.
When comparing two quotes, check that the counts are in the same unit before comparing anything else. This single check prevents more errors than any other.
Specify it properly.
Count with its unit, ply, twist, spinning route and a gauge recommendation. That is a specification. A fibre name is not.